Threspassing: ICE 626 to Duisburg
Politicians like to talk about the mobility transition in transport. That sounds good but little is done. It is propaganda leading to nice slogans like “Bahnland Bayern”, “Grüne Welle der Vernunft”, Umdenken, Einsteigen”, “Damit Deutschland vorne bleibt“, “Jeder Mensch hat Ziele. Wir bringen Sie hin” oder “Schneller voran mit Bus und Bahn”. The idea is to convince the masses to take the train so that the privileged have a free motorway to themselves. At the same time politics and rules are established which make it impossible to sustain a reliable train service.
A new ICE 4 in Duisburg Hbf. This station will be modernized soon
To cover a long distance by public transport involves extensive planning, time, patience and often high costs and not a minor degree of idealism with a tendency to masochism, in particular when your starting point is in the countryside. Just as an example, here is the intended schedule for a trip from the little town of Gefrees in northern Bavaria to The Hague in the Netherlands, a distance of 720 km for which a car driver would need 7 hours according to google maps.
The next major station to Gefrees, Münchberg, a former junction for branch lines
Passenger service on the train line to Gefrees was closed in 1973, in 1993, the remaining goods service succumbed to the extension of a motorway which would have required the expensive rebuilding of an underpass. There is a bus service several times a day to either Bayreuth ore Münchberg, but it is very slow and does not connect reliably to the train schedule so it is better to reserve a taxi to go to the closest train station at Marktschorgast.
From there the intended connections are
RE 35 Marktschorgast 12.18 - Bamberg 13.13
RE 54 Bamberg 13.26 – Würzburg 14.21
ICE 626 Würzburg Hbf 14.55 – Frankfurt Hbf 16.04
ICE 122 Frankfurt Hbf 16.28 – Utrecht Central 19.59
IC 1170 Utrecht Central 20.28 – Den Haag Central 21.06
In Den Haag an additional tram ride is necessary to get to your final destination.
This schedule allows for minor delays since most of the stopover times are ample. Including taxi and tram ride, the whole trip would take around 10 hours when everything goes according to plan.
The little station of Stammbach is a good example how the German railway infrastructure has deteriorated
The task of the man in the signal box is not only to set the points (1) and signals, but also to open or close the barrier to the second platform
The costs involved are 101.55 € for the train ride when you own a Bahncard giving a reduction of 50% and in addition 15 € for the taxi ride and less than 2 € for the tram ride. Without the reduction it is prohibitively expensive if you do not book a long time in advance to get a special rate which in turn is only valid for a specific train.
Crossing RE trains in Neuenmarkt Wirsberg
Taxi companies in rural areas are rare. Most people own and use their cars anyway. There is no taxi company in Gefrees, the taxi has to come from Bad Berneck 11 km away. I made the reservation a day before just to make sure the company still has time available for me. I also selected a pick up time early enough to allow plenty of time to change to the train in the station of Marktschorgast.
One of the platforms in Neuenmarkt Wirsberg still is in the original state, The station is in progress of renovation
When I did not see a taxi by a quarter to 12 I began to become restless and gave them a call. It turned out that there had been a misunderstanding and my call helped to get the car underway. It still arrived in time to cover the 10 min distance and catch the train.
2-10-2 engine class 95, the mountain queen, in the museum in Neuenmarkt Wirsberg. These engines were used as helpers on steep grades
Marktschorgast is one of the most iconic little train stations in Germany. Until 1973 the line from Bamberg to Hof was one of the last in Western Europe where express trains were hauled by steam engines. It is the summit station of the so called “Schiefe Ebene”. Opened in 1848 it connects the stations of Neuenmarkt-Wirsberg and Marktschorgast with a grade of 2.5% and was at the time the first steep railway incline of its type in Germany, if not world-wide. Before 1973 most of the steam hauled trains had to be helped up the incline by a helper engine at the end of the train. At the bottom of the hill in Neuenmarkt-Wirsberg is a big railway museum, there is a railway historic hiking trail with numerous information panels along the line and the stations still have the original goods shed and station building of the time of the Royal Bavarian railway built from local stone. The station building in Marktschorgast houses an information center about the line and the neighboring nature park. Regularly historic steam trains operate on the line. They end in Marktschorgast and then turn around and roll back down to Neuenmarkt Wirsberg.
RE rolling done the grade of Schiefe Ebene
Recently Deutsche Bahn has reconstructed the station. In Germany for a private owner of a listed historic building the most minor changes are made impossible by strict conservation laws. A public institution like Deutsche Bahn is allowed to do what they want. Their architects have done their utmost best to wipe out the historic aspect of the place. They have invested into an incredible amount of concrete to built new platforms for the two tracks, a connecting pedestrian bridge, a ramp for the minor valid and trolley customers and of course a parking lot. Every edge and corner is secured by high steel railings and fences so that even the most evil minded is prevented from falling into a 20 cm deep abyss. A guard rail and two railings were necessary to separate the platform from the parking lot. The new platform is a meter higher than the original entrance of the historic building with its exhibition. The old bench allowing for a rest of the nervous traveler is separated from the platform by another steel banister. At the same time those brave planners have overlooked that the handicapped traveler may easily leave from the down platform since he has access by the highly secure ramp, but access to the other, up, platform is only via the steep staircase of the bridge or a steep unpaved gravel road from somewhere on the other side.
RE leaving the renewed Markt Schorgast station
The layout of the tracks in the station also disregards the wishes for running special trains or even a freight train. There are no spare tracks where such trains could be passed or be stalled before return although like anybody else the operators of such trains have to pay fees for track usage. The minimized design of the track layout is intending to keep other operators from using the track. Even for Deutsche Bahn as the main operator it is made difficult to deal with any special situations like delays, stranded trains or works on the track.
100% secure access to platform 1 in Marktschorgast
The former station water house is being renovated and turned into apartments
The former goods shed
The train for Bamberg arrives with a slight delay of 5 minutes. Nothing to worry for the moment since the stopover time in Bamberg will be 13 minutes. The reason mainly is that on the line north of Marktschorgast the second track has been removed to save money so that any delays are transferred on to oncoming trains. It is a Diesel powered so called pendolino railcar which can take curves at a higher speed. Although the interior is quite comfortable with seats that are still cushioned and tables at each seat, it can be seen that it is from another time. There is no internet, no sockets and the noise of the engine makes you understand why everybody uses headphones. At least, on a Monday early afternoon, the usual drunks with their beer crates are not there.
The old bench, former travellers' rest now separated from the track
At a station called Hochstadt-Marktzeuln the line from Hof joins the old main line from Munich to Berlin. However, recently they have built a new high speed line which joins in towards Bamberg shortly afterwards. Even for those who have dozed away the arrival of the high speed line immediately becomes clear because the train slows down and enormous sound barriers block the view. There still is a lot of work to do and this is usually a good reason for further delays. It does not help the works very much that they first have built the sound barriers which now block access to the tracks. It is surprising that barriers of such a size are allowed on both sides of the track since in case of emergency they make it almost impossible for a rescue team to get to the problem.
Sound barrier somewhere along the line.... the glass panel is the exception
Around Bamberg the new line and sound barriers are not yet built. Therefore the passenger still gets a good view of the first sight of Bamberg, the ruin of the steam shed abandoned a long time ago. The roof of the two roundhouses has collapsed and trees grow between the tracks and the pit of the turntable. There was enough money for a fence to prevent treasure hunters from entering the biotope until the last traces of railway history have rotten away. With a bit of maintenance this would have been a perfect place for a museum – now it is a perfect example how infrastructural resources are wasted.
Access to a commuter station behind sound barriers
The accumulated delay was not enough to miss the connecting train in Bamberg. I walk to the other platform where a brand new double deck train waits for me. It’s main advantage is that the hard shell seats are vandalism proof. There is still no internet or sockets in this well used train which will continue all the way to Frankfurt.
Weather proof waiting room on the platform (Duisburg)
The long stopover of more than half an hour in Würzburg gives me the chance to buy a sandwich and coffee and have a look in the bookstore. Würzburg is a very busy station and there are plenty of bakeries, food shops, a drugstore and a bookstore in the station hall. They even sell train tickets there. When I come back to the platform my ICE is already there. It is half empty and I find a comfortable window seat. From there I can see the old shed on the other side of the tracks. It used to have three turntables and roundhouses. One was demolished some years ago, but there are still a roundhouse, an open air storage area around a turntable and a rectangular shed. They are not much used any more.
Marienburg castle above the Main in Würzburg
The connecting ICE train departs on time. The train climbs out of the station onto the high-speed line north. There is an excellent view of the river Main and the Marienberg castle above the vineyards before the train disappears in the first tunnel. From here I do not expect more disruptions or adventures and so I stretch out in my seat to enjoy the view. Between the tunnels of the high speed line the train crosses long and high bridges over what seems to be unspoiled agricultural landscape with the steep, vineyard covered banks of the river Main in the background. Some time after the train has regained the old line along the river valley I doze away into a refreshing nap.
Having a nap on the ICE
When I wake up and check the time and compare it with the view outside I realize that something must be wrong. The train must be at least 15 minutes late. I must have slept while it stood somewhere or ambled along slowly. I stare outside while the depressing outskirts of Frankfurt pass by slowly. Eventually we come to a halt in the station of Frankfurt Süd. A couple of other trains seem to be waiting there already. The other platform is packed with people.
After a while there is an announcement that there is a suicide attempt on the big bridge leading across the river into the main station. Initially they expect a delay of 30 minutes, enough for me to miss the connecting train towards Utrecht. While we stand at the platform all the tracks of the station fill with trains unable to continue. The doors are unlocked and people get outside into to stretch their legs and smoke a cigarette. It is unusually hot for this time of the year.
While the time passes the announcements slowly increase the time of the expected delay to 40, then 50, then 60 minutes. At the same time the reasons given for the delay change from a suicide attempt to unauthorized people on the tracks to a police operation which causes a closure of the entire Frankfurt Main station. Meanwhile some of the other trains in the station have left and gone back to where they came from. The next ICE in my direction, bound to run one hour later, also arrives and is parked on the next platform.
The layout of the tracks of the stations of Frankfurt (Main) Hbf and Frankfurt (Main) Süd and their connection to the station of Frankfurt Airport can be clearly seen on Openrailway maps. Any train bound north could leave Frankfurt Süd and continue to Frankfurt Airport thereby bypassing Frankfurt (Main) Hbf and the bridge. The train to Amsterdam does not use the bridge at all. However, on the Deutsche Bahn website it can be seen that also the Amsterdam train is badly delayed. There is no obvious reason for that. I decide to look for a train which goes to Frankfurt Airport directly from Frankfurt (Main) Süd and pack my bag and rush to the other platform where the later ICE is waiting. When I talk to the conductor he explains that they cannot continue since the northbound ICE’s change driver in Frankfurt. Since the new driver cannot come to Frankfurt Süd the trains cannot continue.
Passengers waiting on the platform in Frankfurt Süd
At the same time a local train to Rüsselsheim arrives. It is also 40 minutes late but is scheduled to go to Frankfurt Airport directly. While I board the train it is announced that ICE 626, on which I arrived originally, will now continue. While it leaves and I sit in the local train, the other ICE also leaves. Only then my local train also departs and slowly, with a lot of stop and go, continues to Frankfurt Airport. We arrive there around 18.00, 40 minutes later than scheduled. The ICE, which had left Frankfurt Süd before, is still there. They are still looking for a driver.
Typical view from the train window around Frankfurt or the Ruhr area
The next train towards Amsterdam and Utrecht is scheduled to arrive at 18.15. Shortly before arrival it turns out that it is 60 minutes late. Instead I take the next train north towards Duisburg. It is my original train, ICE 626, which I had left behind in Frankfurt Süd. It now is almost exactly two hours late.
The next day the news reports that rail traffic and shipping on the Main came to a standstill in Frankfurt because a 26 year old woman climbed into a pillar on the bridge. There was a risk of falling and she could have been electrocuted; therefore the electricity on the catenary of the train-line had to be shut off. This stopped the air-conditioning on an ICE train which led to the evacuation of 450 passengers via the scrubby ramp of the bridge. It took an emergency force of 100 until at 1 am the woman was finally convinced to climb down. She was arrested and transferred to a psychiatric institution.
Waiting for a train, Frankfurt airport
This one person not only caused the evacuation of a train, but also a long series of disruptions, delays and cancellations of other trains, possibly missed flights for people who took the train to get to the airport. Since staff arriving on other trains was delayed, even connections which were not affected directly since they did not pass the bridge were late or had to be canceled. That way a woman in a bridge in Frankfurt leads to frustrated passengers in Amsterdam CS or Paris Est. Their trains are late since the incoming train and staff was delayed.
Train waiting for a driver, Frankfurt airport
For the moment I am now glad to be on a train to Duisburg. Once in the Ruhr area the ICE is not the only option to continue to the Netherlands. There is also the local train from Düsseldorf via Duisburg to Arnhem, which is much slower but usually reliable, and the connection from Düsseldorf via Venlo and Eindhoven, which is notoriously unreliable. When I check it turns out that for this day it is replaced by a bus.
Typical occupation in a train restaurant
Since it might be my last chance to get some food I go to the train restaurant. It is busy. I sink down on a free spot at a table occupied by a woman looking alternately at her phone and her laptop. There is a menu on the table but nobody has any food. The woman tells me I might have to order at the counter because the staff does not come. I get up and walk to the counter and order medallions of straw pig and a lemon soda. The attendant answers that they are out of straw pig medallions. So, what have you got then, I ask. She turns around and shouts at her colleague in the back of the kitchen compartment what kind of food he has got. He answers: “medallions of straw pig”. “Well I guess I take medallions of straw pig then…. “.
View from train restaurant across the tracks in Frankfurt
With a gesture reflecting her high motivation the attendant takes my card for the payment and bangs a bottle and a set of cutlery on the counter in front of me, asking whether I need a glass. I do, and ask whether she will bring my food when it is done. She passes the question on to the guy in the bowels of their compartment. His answer is: “No, if I bring his food, the others will want to order something as well. Let him come back in three minutes.”
Sunset in the old Duisburg station. This typical example of 1950'ies station architecture will soon be demolished and replaced by something more fashionable
I shout out this information to the other hungry and thirsty passengers while I return to my seat. Indeed some get up to walk to the counter to place their order. This gets me some attention from the cutie behind her screens. Of course the conversation immediately turns to the functioning of Deutsche Bahn in particular and of Germany in general. She has to go from Düsseldorf to Frankfurt several times a week and most of the time there is a problem. She has learned to sit in the restaurant or in the coach next to it since the door there is the only one which is equipped with a ladder for evacuation. When the whole train has to get out of this door it is good to be in front of the line. It happened to her several times. Still, even after all the bad experiences she is convinced that there is no alternative to the train.
Duisburg Hbf
As I walk back to get my food, I consider starting a discussion with the guy in his kitchen compartment about what he's been up to for all the hours he's been stuck there anyway. Isn't it easier to do your job instead of killing time in a dark compartment? And he would certainly get a bit of a tip as well. But I resign and rather prefer to continue my conversation with my new attractive fellow traveler.
Duisburg Hbf
In Duisburg I have just enough time to change from the incoming ICE to the local train to Arnhem on the other platform which fortunately is late a couple of minutes as well. Train and platform are packed with people. Nobody can deny that there is a need for functioning public transport hereabouts. I had intended to take this train to Arnhem but after it has left the station in Duisburg there is an announcement that due a train failure the trip will not continue beyond Emmerich. I do not take the risk to be stuck in Emmerich, where the ICE does not stop and therefore get off again in Oberhausen. The station board announces that the next ICE to Amsterdam scheduled to arrive in 10 minutes is one hour late. I'm happy about such delays since they give me the chance to explore places I otherwise would not see. And the station in Oberhausen is an interesting relic from the time when the steam train was an indispensable monument of time the Ruhr area was a soot covered, black and smoky industrial hell.
The present station building in the style of classic modernism was built in 1930-1934. In the second world war it was heavily damaged but in 1993, fortunately, the international building exhibition Emscherpark was organized. On that occasion the station was completely renovated and restored to its original state. It included the passenger tunnel under the platforms which fortunately is rather free of commerce, so that you actually can find the trains. The relief “The Three Ages” by Ernst Müller-Blensdorf was restored and placed back in the entrance to the tunnel. The tunnel also opens to the west, where it gives access to a exhibit of the Rheinisches Industriemuseum, which opened in 1997, and the ubiquitous car park.
Station building in Oberhausen Hbf
The first platform of the station was turned into a part of the Museum. It points at the importance of Oberhausen as a hub for heavy industry in the Ruhr area. On the track an industrial electric engine and two cars typical for the steel production are on display. One is a so called “torpedo car” for transporting liquid steal by train. These cars are still widely in use. The other, a slag pan car, is designed to transport hot ashes and slag. A ladle used to pour liquid steel is exhibited on the platform.
The tunnel under the platforms in Oberhausen and the relief “The Three Ages” by Ernst Müller-Blensdorf
From the other platforms I see people on the Museumsplatform, but they do not seem to be interested in the exhibits. No trains leave from there. A guy even comes with his bicycle and disappears behind the ladle. When I have a closer look I know why. There is a toilet in the station but it is for a fee. Behind the ladle the needy can have their conspicuous pee for free.
The Museumsbahnsteig with the ladle....
... electric engine Nr 159 and a slag pan and torpedo car
While I look around the driver of the S3 train is enjoying his fag. We start a conversation about the recent delays. His morning started with the closure of his line because of unauthorized people on the track. It turned out that the intruder was a homeless who had decided to search for returnable bottles between the rails. It took a while for the police to find and remove him. We discuss the increased need for security. People have lost their feeling for danger. It is always shocking for a driver to enter a station with a full platform. People linger close to platform edge. Children are playing catch while the parents swipe on their phone screens. Blowing the engine’s horn is no option since in shock they might jump onto the rails. There is no way to stop a moving train on time. When you approach the only option is close your eyes and pray.
Waiting for the delayed train to Amsterdam
The conduct of the public also threatens the organization of tours with historic trains. On June 10th the tour with a newly restored steam engine had to be stopped after the line had been closed because the spectators not only had wandered into the tracks but also climbed into the electricity masts.
Nevertheless, the question arises whether the behavior of passengers or bystanders is the only reason for the severity of these interruptions. Nobody closes a motor way because of an errant pedestrian or stranded car. And then, the number of accidents involving fatally injured or wounded victims on the road are much higher than on the rails. Does a line really have to be closed when a trespasser is detected? Trains could pass with low speed and blowing horns. The railroad used to have their own police force who were acquainted with the circumstances. They were rationalized away. The local police involved in railway cases probably never even have traveled on a train nor have experience with catenaries, signs or points.
View from the train along the line towards the Dutch border
Whole lines have to be closed since trains strand on the line and have to be evacuated. Why does a train have to be evacuated on a line and not in a station? The underlying reasons are that there are no spare engines which could tow a stranded train into the next station and no spare tracks or platforms in minor stations to store or evacuate a stranded train. The schedule for staff is tight and there is no idle personnel to jump onto trains which has delayed drivers. And then the question is how all this can be reconciled with the software managing the deployment of material and staff.
Crossing Emscher river at sunset
There is one positive thing. Any delay above one hour gives the right to get back 50% of the fare. They do not discuss: either you get it or not, they do not even send a receipt that they have received the form. First thing I do after I get home is filling in the form. After a couple of weeks I get back 50% of the fare.
Glimpse into a departing ICE
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