The New York Transit Authority
In 1880 the population of the two most populous boroughs of New York, Manhattan and Brooklyn, was 1.165.000 resp. 599.000. By 1900 the population of Manhattan had increased to 1.850.000 while the population of Brooklyn had almost doubled to 1.167.000. At the same time also the Bronx and Queens showed a significant population increase.
Elevated subway in Brooklyn with the towers of Manhattan in the background
At the time public transport in New York mainly relied on trolleys, cable cars, and steam operated elevated railways, but also still on horse-drawn streetcars and omnibuses. Between 1865 and 1887 the annual number of people transported by these means had risen from 79.6 to 321.9 million. End of the 19th century 94 miles of elevated railway, 265 miles of horse drawn railways and 137 miles of horse omnibuses became entirely inadequate to cope with the masses of passengers. Trolleys and streetcars were slow and subject to delays in the congested streets. The steam engine operated elevated railways were readily distributing cinders and ashes or even engine oil onto the distinguished gentlemen in the streets below. Even after electrification the support construction was in the way of the traffic below. The increasing density of the buildings including the construction of the first skyscrapers made the development of efficient means of transport highly necessary.
Wall painting in the Rockefeller Center including an elevated steam train
Plans for building an underground railway had existed for a long time, and between 1864 and 1902 the state of New York had issued charters to 16 separate companies to build such a railway, but none was able to raise sufficient funds and gain enough political support since the owners of horse railways were afraid of loosing business.
Entrance Myrtle Willowby station in Brooklyn
When the first subway line finally opened in 1904 it was clear that more would have to follow. At the time the subway’s capacity was planned to be 400.000 users per day. In 1908 the number of daily users had increased to 800.000, in 1914 even to 1.2 million. At the same time the subway allowed the development of outlying areas for housing. Today, 3.6. million people use the subway every day with an overall total of 2 billion a year.
A typical underground station in Brooklyn: Myrtle Willowby
The story of the subway is told by the Transit Museum on Schermerhorn street in Brooklyn. The museum is set up in the disused Court station. The exhibition tells the story of the construction of the first metro lines. The topography of New York with numerous underwater passages and geology was challenging. Under water the workers had to work in pressurized tunnels. There were leaks and workers were sucked out of the tunnel into the water above. Others were buried by sliding rock. In Manhattan there was a risk of collapsing buildings which had to be stabilized. But eventually the first line was finished and it was an immediate success.
Entrance to the New York Transit Museum in Brooklyn
After you arrive at JFK airport you will have to look for the air train. Although there is some sign-posting, it is confusing. In particular because you don’t know in which direction you have to go. The names of stations do not ring bells with newcomers. After you finally boarded the train which will bring you to a metro station called Jamaica they will tell you that will have to pay 8.50 $ when you want to leave the air train.
Line of historic trains in the Court station museum
The metro only forms a small part of Jamaica station. Most platforms are from the Long Island Railway. While searching for the right platform you get the first impression that riding the Metro in the first place means mastering stairways.
... and the luxurious interior
In New York, almost half of the employees use the subway to come to work. If the city is considered to be a body, the subway would be its blood circulation. The subway brought the people of the different boroughs together. It led to the exchange of cultures and people could work and live in different neighborhoods. The subway reflects the diversity of the city: a black man sits next to an orthodox Jew, a distinguished white lady on her way to a theater show next to Caribbean women in colorful dresses. All ages, religions, genders, races travel together and in the majority of cases get along in a friendly manner. During most of the rides on a full train which I spend standing in the aisle somebody offered me their seat even while it was obvious that they were tired on their ride home after a busy day. When we talk across the aisle somebody offers to swap seats. The trains are surprisingly clean and the passengers quiet, maybe because the train is so loud.
Historic warnings
Some of the subway rides can be tough. The trains accelerate and brake so fiercely that people slide along the longitudinal benches. When you are not lucky enough to have a seat you better grab a handrail or you might topple over or bump into your neighbors. The cars swing and rattle unexpectedly. It can be really impressive to stand at the end of a car and look through the window how the next one swings a meter to the left or right. And all this comes with a lot of noise.
Historic Ads
While car drivers are stuck in endless traffic jams on the roads above or below the users of the transit system transport pieces of furniture or building material, chat with their friends and of course, play around with their cell-phones. Above they stand in a constant traffic jam, full of aggression and permanent honking. Frequently walking in New York is faster than driving. However, there are practically no pedestrian zones. Sidewalks can get full. There is no alternative to taking the subway.
Making up in the subway
To do your morning make-up under subway conditions is a challenge. A surprising number of people is also able to read their paperback book. I ask a colored girl next to me how she can focus on her book in the rumbling, congested train. She guesses she got used to it. On my other side a woman politely asks if I mind if she sits next to me with her dog. The beast is terrified, but stays calm. It is only their third time on the train. At each stop the dog’s nose points to the exit door with the clear desire in the eyes to get out of here. Dog owners meeting complete strangers with dogs start conversations about their terrified beasts. Friendships are made.
The subway brings different people together
Numerous pamphlets in the cars encourage people to improve their subway conduct. “Courtesy counts”, “Seats are for butts, not for bags”, “Pull the plug”, “Watch your backpack”, “Leave some space for the rest of us” are some of the reminders. However, far less people leave their bag next to them on the seat than in European trains. It is also rare that somebody plays hard music except for those few still trying to earn some money by playing on the train. And I did not see any plugs suitable to charge an electric vehicle like a bicycle.
Concert in the Mezzanine of Rockefeller subway station
Sometimes a musician or band uses the acoustics to perform. In particular the mezzanine floors are popular but some also play on the platforms, less frequently on the trains. There are solo artists but also whole bands which require quite some space since they sometimes draw a sizable audience. When the mood rises, some people start dancing. When I drop a dollar into the bag of a black blues guitar player after listening to some of his songs I see that the bag is full of bank notes. It seems to be quite a good way to make some money.
Violin Karaoke on the platform at Rockefellers
At the stop at Rockefeller center a Central American Family has turned the whole platform into their business. Mother and older daughter walk around with card board trays trying to sell sweets. The youngest, the son, is busy selling little souvenirs. The father has put down an amplifier and plays karaoke with his violin at a considerable volume. Only he makes good money. His music is in particular popular with Chinese girls. They film and give.
While the building of the subway system gained momentum other means of transport disappeared. The last horse drawn omnibus was discontinued in 1907. In 1909 the last cable car was converted to a trolley. The last horse drawn tram stopped in 1917, after the first motor-bus had been introduced in 1916. In 1919 there were still 1344 miles of streetcar routes with more users than the subway lines. But their days were counting down. The last trolley disappeared in 1957.
Christmas time
Originally the individual lines were owned by different operators. With the extension of the subway system eventually two private operators ran the publicly owned subways of the two biggest boroughs, Brooklyn with the BRT (later renamed to BMT), and Manhattan with the IRT. A third publicly owned system was introduced with the IND when new lines were needed. The ticket prices were fixed by law to 5 ct. The costs per user were 10 ct. The service was miserable and bankruptcy of the private operators was imminent. In 1940 the city took over the operations. But that did not help to keep the prices at 5 ct per ride.
The last elevated railway in Manhattan closed down in 1955. Many lines in Brooklyn are still elevated today. They offer a spectacular view of the cityscape. However, for those on the ground the noise is unnerving. At the Myrtle – Broadway stop the M trains go around a narrow curve close to the windows of the second floor of the neighboring buildings. The trains screech around the bend. The old station is from the beginning of the times of the elevated lines in Brooklyn. Supported on graffiti covered steel beams it covers the streets. The steel girders of discontinued elevate lines still extend into Myrtle Avenue.
Myrtle Avenue with remainders of elevated railway ....
and Myrtle Broadway station
Platform at Myrtle Broadway
The intersection of M and F at Myrtle Broadway
The transit museum still owns some of the first Brooklyn elevated cars which after modernization operated until 1969. They still have a wooden body, which was prohibited on the tunnel sections after serious accidents.
Homeless in Myrtle Willowby station
A guy steps on a train and starts his recitation. He is homeless, lives in a shelter, he was left by his wife. He doesn’t ask for money, just a bit of food or a soda, and if possible a spare dollar. While he speaks, an announcement on the intercom warns passengers from encouraging beggars by giving them a donation. Nobody on the train moves to hand over money. Eventually the guy thanks the car for the patience and moves to the next one.
Newspaper with headline that a homeless was burnt alive on the subway
Other announcements warn from surfing the outside of the train. “Don’t become someone’s subway story” is printed on one of the posters on display. Chains prevent people from riding between the cars. This year 6 people have died from subway surfing. Many more, between 20 and 30 die annually because they choose the subway for their suicide. Crime has decreased constantly over the years but there were still 8 murders on the subway in 2022. Recently somebody was burned on a train. With the big numbers of people on the platform it is surprising that there are not more accidents with people who accidentally fall onto the rails.
Homeless or ...
To keep law and order the transit authority employs of force of 4250 subway police. Most of the time they are seen watching our for people jumping the gates. As soon as you are inside the gate you can travel for as long as you like.
Travelers
Traditionally tokens had been used to pay for the subway ride. They were replaced by cards. Meanwhile you can pay with your credit card. The maximum amount which is deducted for a week is 34 $.
Some homeless seem to have made the subway their home. There are people sleeping on a bench inside the train, their shoes and belongings set down neatly underneath. The trains ride all night, so in winter they offer a warm shelter. Others have spread out their blanket on the station floor or they sit outside the gates in the mezzanine.
Homeless in a station in Manhattan
In the paranoia after the attacks of 9/11 a general ban on taking photos in the subway was discussed. Eventually it was not implemented. Only the use of tripods, lights and flashes is discouraged. I am not the only one taking pictures at picturesque stations like Smith street, which is covered with steel girders where the paint peels off, or the graffiti covered staircases and mess of tracks at Myrtle-Broadway station. I wave to the drivers and guards and they always give a friendly wave back – some wearing white gloves on their footplate.
Smith street station
The steel girders at Smith street
I stand in the tunnel of the R train at the 9th street in Brooklyn. There are 4 tracks. The inner tracks are used for the Express trains, which stop only in major stations, the local trains stop everywhere. The rumbling and noise of a passing express is overwhelming, in particular when there is a joint in the track or a point. The 4 track lay-out not only allows express trains to pass the local trains. It also has the advantage of offering a bypass in case of disruptions.
Old signal post and the interior in the museum
The New York subway system has around 470 stations. Only 150 are accessible via elevators. Riding the subway can be a challenge because you have to manage endless stairways. Sometimes they are in narrow, slippery passageways where arriving passengers get in the way of those eager to catch a departing train. Some stations have metal stairways to the platforms which seem to date back to the early days of railway construction. The stairways are in particular annoying when you want to change between different lines in a busy station. People with luggage, strollers, little children or those with a handicap only just about are able to manage, and at the same time block the pathway for all the others. Numerous announcements advice to grab a handrail to avoid sliding or falling. You better have your hands free. A roller case is not the best type of luggage here.
Subway entrance Christopher street
Changing trains frequently involves squeezing along narrow extended platforms in search of the right stairway. It takes time to get used to the indications, if you get used at all. Sometimes you have to go down onto the platform of another line to change to a train of a third line. Or wander through long, winding corridors to another part of the station. On the way you pass people who sleep in corners or beg for money. But even if you finally are at your destination you have to find the right stairway up. Google maps is a big help. It always indicates the exit, like 14th street, 5th avenue in combination with the corner, i.e. SW.
View from the Mezzanine of Rockefeller station
Improving the accessibility of the platforms is only one of the many challenges for the New York Transit Authority. Many of the stations give a run-down and dilapidated impression. The tiles are broken and the parts are missing from the beautiful mosaic decorations. The doors of utility closets are broken or open. The annual subway budget is around 8.7 billion $. The money also has to be sufficient to maintain and renew 6400 subway cars, 722 miles of line and the maintenance of points and the safety, sign box and signaling equipment.
Two of the many stairs
It is raining hard. We board the G-line when an announcement discloses that the trains will only run until Bedford station. The reason is a power outage. Somebody comments with a loud “fuck you”. The girl next to me comments “He dares to say what many of us think”. It is a challenge to keep a system like the New York subway running without disruptions. It seems to work pretty well, but there has to be some maintenance to keep it running. Patience and understanding is not everybody’s thing.
Inside the tunnel under the streets of Manhattan at Chambers street
Maintenance is usually done at night or less busy times like the weekends. That is when you get into real trouble. The line you are used to is not running as usual. You are in the tunnel. You want to check your phone to see how you can go. You find out that there is no internet connection. You have to look for one of the maps posted far too seldom somewhere in the stations. Those posted in the cars are usually above somebody’s head and in such a small scale that you can hardly read it. Or you cannot get to the map since the train is so full. The newer cars have a digital sign-board inside which shows on which line you are, where the train is going, which are the intermediate stations and the connecting lines. Locals will know that the 14th street station on the signboard is the Brooklyn stop, not the 14th street stop in Manhattan, or any other borough. When you are in one of the old trains you have to rely on what you see outside and what the announcement tells you. You are lucky when it is an automated announcement. If the announcements are made by the driver they are rarely comprehensible. They seem to select those drivers for these trains who have the worst accent. After I got lost in the subway it took me 2 trains and half an hour to arrive at a station where I finally found a train in the right direction. That was when also the internet started working again.
Selling flowers in the Mezzanine
The subway was originally funded and built by the City of New York and private companies between 1900 and 1940. There was no funding of the federal government involved and after WW II any subsidies from outside were only given for highway development. Modernization was delayed and further expansion came to a standstill. Only end of the 20th century the federal government changed their policies and subsidized the construction of new subways in big cities like Los Angeles, Atlanta, Washington DC, Pittsburgh or Buffalo. Since New York City already had its network there was no federal money. There was no political willingness to fund a subway which was considered to finance itself while at the same time there was strong social pressure against the increase of fares. These policies led to a financial collapse of the subway system in the 1970’ies. The problem was solved by joining the funds earned from bridge tolls, which always were profitable, with those of the subway. There now is more room for renovation, improvement and modernization and there are even plans for a new line.
Selling flowers under the bridges of Myrtle Broadway station
Sources:
Information panels, New York Transit Museum
Clifton Hood, 722 miles, The building of the subways and how they transformed New York, Centennial edition, 2004
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