La ville martyre
For the history of France, indeed of all of Central Europe, few cities are as significant as Reims. Even before its conquest by Caesar in the Gallic Wars, a major Celtic settlement existed here. After the conquest, the city was renamed Civitas Remorum, after the Remi, a Belgian tribe loyal to Rome, who settled here. A triumphal arch, the largest Roman gateway in the world, survives from the Roman period. In the old city center, there is a square still known today as the Forum. Beneath the square are underground vaults, called the Cryptoportique, which were likely part of the Roman market. They can be visited in summer.
Roman triumphal arch
Christianization already began during Roman times, and Reims became the seat of a bishop. At the end of the 5th century, the Frankish king Clovis I was the first person to be baptized in the city's cathedral by Bishop Remigius of Reims. This marked the beginning of the city's important position within the Frankish kingdom, which dominated the following centuries. In 816, Louis the Pious, son of Charlemagne, was crowned emperor in Reims.
View of the cathedral Notre-Dame down one of the thoroughfares
This tradition was continued, when, between the 12th and 19th centuries, Reims Cathedral was the site where most French kings were anointed and crowned. Therefore, it was particularly important that the city was recaptured from the English by Joan of Arc during the Hundred Years' War. The coronations took place in Reims Cathedral, which thus became one of the most significant churches in French history.
For every student of art history and architecture, Reims Cathedral is the prime example and model for all Gothic cathedrals, not only in France but throughout Western and Central Europe. For many years, it was my great desire to visit this cathedral. It took more than 40 years until it finally happened.
Interior of Notre-Dame
The main reason for this long delay is the city's location. Although Reims can be reached from Paris in 45 minutes by TGV, there is no other direct rail connection since the Brussels-Charleville-Mézières line to Reims was closed. Without a reservation, reaching the city from the east is a time-consuming process involving multiple changes. Often, replacement bus services are required instead of trains. From the west and north, the route usually leads via Laon. Since there are only a few trains per day across rural France, and connections often require hours of waiting, the journey is time-consuming and carries the risk of being stranded at a rural train station due to a missed connection.
Station square in Metz before departure to Reims
Once you're in Metz, there is one connection per day with a change in Nancy. A more attractive option is to travel from Metz to Reims via Onville, Longuyon, and Charleville-Mézières. This Saturday, no trains are being replaced by buses, so I hope to enjoy the scenic route through the French Ardennes from the train window.
Inside the station in Metz
If the trains are running. A glance from the window of my hotel near Metz train station reveals a fresh, continuous blanket of snow. And it's still snowing heavily. Since the first train to Onville doesn't leave until 12:36, I can enjoy a leisurely breakfast. There are only a few other guests. The man at reception is also tending to the buffet. It's plentiful and varied. Under his watchful eyes, I help myself to fruit salad, yogurt, an egg, and make a few pieces of baguette with salami for the journey. Luckily, I taste the egg before packing it with the salami sandwiches into my bag for lunch. When I crack the tip with the spoon, the egg white squirts out. The eggs aren't cooked yet. A lucky escape. The uncooked contents of the egg could have easily spilled all over my bag.
Train to Bar-de-Duc
As the morning progresses, the snowfall intensifies. I trudge through the snow-covered streets of Metz's Imperial City to the monumental Metz Ville train station. Despite the weather, the train to Bar-le-Duc is already waiting there, which I'm to take for the short distance to Onville.
Changing trains in Onville
I share the train with four chattering teenagers behind me and a woman opposite me who is discussing her problems with her lovers on her phone in a mixture of different languages, of which I only understand French. Unfortunately, the journey isn't long enough for me to follow everything.
Snow-covered platforms in Onville
In Onville, the teenagers, a man with his bicycle, and I get off the train. There's... nothing here. There are two platforms, connected to each other and to the square by the abandoned and boarded-up station building by a high metal bridge with cold railings and slippery steps. The platform is ankle-deep in snow, in which not even footprints are visible. There's no sign of a town. The abandoned station building is the only structure for miles around.
Onville
We have to wait here for 23 minutes for the train to Longwy, which is supposed to come from Nancy. The teenagers immediately claimed the small shelter with the only seats. The cyclist with his bike sought shelter under the overhang of the stairs to the overpass. Since there's a second platform, it's not even certain that the train to Longwy will depart from here. There's neither a timetable nor a display.
On the route to Longwy
I trudge up the stairs, backpack and all, and across the bridge to the station building. Down below, visible only to passengers arriving from the street, there's a display. On one side, it shows the arriving trains, and on the other, the departing ones. There aren't many. They're all supposed to be on time. One platform for each direction. At least the chatter is now muffled and dies away completely when a freight train with two locomotives envelops the entire platform towards Longwy in a cloud of snow. After that, I head back to the correct platform.
Snow covered fields on the route to Longwy
Despite the snowstorm, the train from Nancy to Longwy arrives almost too early. As is often the case in France, the conductor is quick to check tickets. Across from me sits an African man carrying a military ID. During the First World War, France recruited more than 450,000 African soldiers, 140,000 to 200,000 of them from West Africa (Senegal Tirailleurs). Approximately 130,000 to 135,000 served on the Western Front. 30,000 did not survive. They fell for a country with which they had no connection, a country that had plundered their homeland, and where they are still treated as second-class citizens. But you can see they are still serving.
Train to Longwy in Longuyon
At the beginning of the First World War, Reims had about 120,000 inhabitants. During the rapid advance at the beginning of the war to a line east of Paris, after September 4, 1914 Reims lay in the German-occupied rear of the front. However, these advanced positions could not be held. The German army had to retreat to the front line on the Aisne, which remained more or less in place until the end of the war. The French recaptured Reims on September 13, 1914.
Longuyon station building
Already during the short time of German occupation and the French recapture thereafter, the city was shelled. After the retreat, the Germans entrenched themselves on the hills north of the city. For over four years, Reims lay directly on the front line. Because it was fortified by the Allies and was important as a transport hub and supply center, the city was subjected to heavy artillery and bombing throughout the war and was 90% destroyed.
Longuyon
Probably to prevent the towers from being used as observation posts, the famous cathedral was set ablaze and severely damaged by German artillery on September 19, 1914. Due to its national significance, this caused additional resentment and hatred in France towards their aggressive neighbors. But the attack also sparked outrage worldwide. After German soldiers had already needlessly set fire to the library in Leuven, one of the oldest in the world, on the night of August 25-26, 1914, the war was already morally lost for Germany. From then on, the Germans were considered Huns and vandals who would stop at nothing.
Sign in the station of Longuyon
Meanwhile, the snowstorm outside has given way to sunshine and a harmless blue sky dotted with fluffy clouds. The few walkers visible in the snowy landscape appear even smaller against the empty, snow-covered expanses of the vast fields.
Memorial for the victims of the wars under the railway staff
My TER train travels via Longuyon to Longwy, but then returns to Longuyon before continuing on to Charleville-Mézières. Nevertheless, I get off in Longuyon. I have to wait 45 minutes here, but Longuyon is a station where time seems to have stood still. On the platform, there's one of the classic old clocks and a beautiful station sign: Longuyon, Meurthe-et-Moselle, altitude 218,760. A plaque commemorates the Cheminots (train crews) who lost their lives in the World Wars. A basket below can be used for displaying flowers, and above it, holdes for flagpoles. There's also a station attendant. However, he's confined to a room behind a fence, like an animal in a zoo.
In front of the station in Longuyon
The station forecourt is lined with a row of platane trees, behind which are a number of buildings that probably stood here a hundred years ago as well. Only the parked cars weren't there back then. You hardly see any people.
Waiting room in the station in Longuyon
There's a waiting room in the station. The ticket counter, however, is closed. Most of the seats are occupied by travelers waiting for the few trains that are running. I stay outside. It's cold, but sunny and pleasant. No trains are coming.
French Ardennes
A chubby girl of about 12 with long braids, which probably no other girl of that age would accept today, and her younger brother have apparently gotten bored inside. They come outside and have fun on the snow-covered part of the platform. We used to do that all the time at the same age, and nobody thought anything of it. Nevertheless, I think it's actually dangerous to let children play unsupervised on a train platform. And then, an old woman comes storming out of the waiting room onto the platform, shouting loudly in a language I don't recognize. The children don't want to go inside. I can understand that, but the peace and quiet on the platform is now over. The old woman is even louder than the children.
View from the train window near Sedan
When the train from Longwy arrives to continue on to Charleville, the noisy family, which also includes an overwhelmed mother, plops down right behind me. After both the boy and girl have run past me several times, screaming, I gather my things and sit at the other end of the admittedly short train. It's first class, but my ticket has already been checked, and apart from a small sign, the classes are indistinguishable.
View from the train window
But it isn't long before the girl with the long braids and the boy arrive at this end of the train. The two women, mother and daughter, sitting opposite me in the compartment, find the children amusing. I, on the other hand, glare at them so as not to give them the impression that they are welcome and can make themselves at home at my table. They both make an enormous racket and run back and forth across the train. Apparently, I'm not the only one bothered by this. The boy complains about a woman who got upset with him. "Il y a des gents agreables y aussi des gents desagreeables“ (There are pleasant people and also unpleasant people) he says. Mother and daughter find this funny. No one asks for my opinion. I would have said, "Il y a des enfants plaisantes, et il y a des enfants irritantes“ (There are pleasant children, and there are irritating children).
Brief stop in the station of Carignan
On the way west, the snow gradually thins. The deserted fields gleam in the sun. We arrive in Charleville-Mézières in beautiful weather. Here I have to wait another 45 minutes for the train to Reims.
Park across the station of Chearleville-Mézières
In Charleville-Mézières, the railway line running west to east along the Belgian border from Lille to Thionville or Metz intersected the north-south line from Namur in Belgium through the Ardennes to Reims. The latter is unfortunately closed on the Belgian section between the French border station of Givet and Dinant. Passenger service was discontinued in 1988, and freight service in 1989, due to insufficient traffic, and the line was subsequently dismantled. There have been repeated initiatives to reactivate it, but so far without success.
Station in Charleville
The station's former importance is still evident. A typical French hall structure spans the platforms. Charming little details have also been preserved, such as the chalkboard where delays were announced. In front of the station is a small park with one of the typical round bandstands.
Station hall in Charleville
But only the route to Reims and onward to Champagne-Ardennes TGV is frequently served. The service is geared towards Paris, and most passengers on the crowded train to Reims change there or to a TGV at the final stop. You can then reach Paris in less than two hours, and there are even direct connections several times a day. However, if you want to travel without a reservation, the journey via Reims and Laon takes at least four hours.
In the station hall of Charleville - nets prevent parts from falling down
As always, I booked a hotel near the train station. Spiral staircases wind around an antiquated elevator up to the rooms. I prefer not to use the elevator. There's always hot water for tea in the breakfast room. Unfortunately, the same can't be said for the shower. It starts out lukewarm, then turns cold. When I mention this to the friendly man at reception, he reacts with surprise. Later, I discover a large sign at the entrance announcing that the gas supply to the building is completely shut off for the duration of my stay. The only heating in the bathroom is via the mirror. This raises the temperature there from 9 to 10 degrees Celsius. However, the mirror switches off again after a short time. There's no refrigerator, and I don't really need one this way. I've learned by now that you have to boil your eggs for breakfast.
The courtyard of Hotel Crystal in Reims
My first impression of Reims is somewhat disappointing and reminiscent of the architecture that sprang up in many German cities due to the hasty post-war reconstruction. The route into the old town leads through a pedestrian zone lined on both sides with monotonous brasseries, fast-food restaurants, chain cafes, and clubs. If you've just come from Metz, you miss the architecturally cohesive cityscape with its uniformly styled neighborhoods. Some buildings would be beautiful, but they're marred by modern additions. At the end of the street stands a Ferris wheel, brightly lit and probably more visible from afar than the cathedral towers. Most of the sightseers here are teenagers. In between, fathers from immigrant families stroll around in dark clothes, their heads hidden in hoods, with their children who are dressed up like little dolls in cheerful clothes and pointed hats.
Bar Hemingway in the main pedestrian zone in Reims
In the heart of this area, at Place Drouet-d'Erlon, stands the Subé Fountain. Designed in 1906 by architect André Najoux, the fountain features four statues symbolizing the Marne, Vesle, Suippe, and Aisne rivers, which, just a few years later, would be the site of bloody conflict. The fountain appears to have survived the First World War. However, the winged bronze hero that crowns the fountain was removed by the German occupiers in 1941. It wasn't until 1989 that a replacement was placed atop the column.
Subé Fountain
If you turn left or right from this lively area, you'll find streets where the original imperial architecture has either been preserved or reconstructed. Here you'll find the Hôtel de Ville, Reims' town hall, which was also completely destroyed in the First World War but subsequently rebuilt with meticulous attention to detail.
In front of the town hall, the Christmas tree is being taken down. City workers with chainsaws are removing the branches. The ornaments are still hanging from the tree. Some of the locals help themselves. "It would be a shame if it all ended up in the trash," one says.
Dismantling of the christmas tree in front of the city hall
Just a little further on is another monumental square, the Place Royale. The Prefecture is housed in an imposing building here. In the center of the square stands an equestrian statue of King Louis XV. The statue had already fallen victim to the French Revolution, was then re-erected here in 1818, and has withstood all subsequent attempts at destruction by revolutionaries, bombs, and the search for precious metals during World War II.
Street view in Reims
The further you get from the train station, the more modern and characterless the streetscape becomes. There is no longer a uniform architectural style; historic buildings form islands within the heterogeneous residential area. Nevertheless, everyone should make the long walk, because at this end of the city, surrounded by modern housing, stands Reims' oldest cathedral, St. Remi. The weather—freezing temperatures, frozen ground, and a bright blue sky—invites you to a long stroll.
St. Remi basilica
Remi was born in 437 near Laon. His father, Emile, was a Roman governor. In 459, the Bishop of Reims died, and the people of Reims elected the then 22-year-old Remi as his successor. He remained bishop until his death at the age of 96 in 533. During this period, church leaders were also intellectuals with knowledge and wisdom. Remi quickly became an advisor to Clovis I, who became leader and king of the Franks at the age of 15. Initially his remains were buried in a small chapel which was later transformed into one of the most important cathedrals in France.
The nave of St Remi basilica
The Basilica of Saint-Remi is almost as large as Notre-Dame Cathedral. Significant construction phases took place in the 11th (crypt), 12th (choir), 13th (apse), and 15th centuries (south transept). The Holy Ampulla, with which the heads of French kings were anointed, was kept here. In the nave is a statue of the bishop holding the holy ampoule. The statue's head is covered in cobwebs.
Bishop with the holy ampoule
Most of the artwork in St. Remi was destroyed during the Revolution. Remi's tomb dates only from the 19th century. The basilica also contains several tombs of Frankish and French kings such as Carloman, Louis IV, and Lothair. Even some of the 12th-century stained-glass windows survived the wartime destruction.
Decorations of the romanic columns
The basilica was the center of an important abbey. The buildings were later modernized and given a Baroque makeover. During the French Revolution, the entire complex was converted into a hospital. The convent is now a museum. Although admission is free, I am almost the only visitor. A girl with a microphone wants to interview me in the courtyard about my opinion of the museum. When she realizes I'm not a local, she puts the microphone away.
The center of St. Remi cathedral
There is a beautiful cloister, and, for example, the original Gothic vault is still preserved in the chapter house.
Courtyard of the Cloister of St. Remi
St. Remi Abbey was also largely destroyed in World War I and subsequently rebuilt. The museum has an interesting special exhibition that deals with the destruction, conservation, and reconstruction of historic buildings in Reims. Artists of the time captured the extent of the destruction in watercolors.
Inside the chapter house
It wasn't until March 1918 that the civilian population was largely evacuated. During the spring offensive of 1918, the Germans attempted to encircle the heavily fortified city and the troops entrenched within it. The offensive failed miserably, and the Germans were pushed back behind their previous lines. It was clear that the war was not only unwinnable but that defeat was imminent.
The art-nouveau part of Reims
Reims was deserted after the capitulation. Even after the Comtesse de Mun launched the "Retour à Reims" (Back to Reims) initiative on January 17, 1919, providing returning needy citizens with free mattresses, furniture, and linens, establishing public canteens, and renting furniture, the population only rose to 25,000 within six months. In July 1919, during a visit by French President Raymond Poincaré, Reims was declared a "martyr city" (ville martyre) because it was the French city that had suffered the most shelling in World War I.
Place Royale in Reims
Initially, the reconstruction efforts focused on the rich detailing of the buildings. The underlying structure, even in churches and Notre Dame Cathedral, is made of concrete, while the exterior decorations are brick.
Art-deco comptoir de la industrie
Then a number of typical Art Deco buildings were constructed. One of these is the Carnegie Library. The public library in Reims had also been destroyed in World War I. Although it had been possible to move the most valuable works, some 100,000, to safety beforehand, the city lacked the funds to build a new library. The Carnegie Foundation provided the city with $200,000 to build this Art Deco library, which served as the official city library until 2003. The foundation also provided funding to the cities of Leuven and Belgrade, which had also been severely damaged by the German attacks.
Carnegie Library
Right by the Place Royale, an Art Deco post office building was erected, which was certainly received with mixed feelings by contemporaries.
Across the street the art-deco post-office
The concrete building, designed in 1926, is the work of postal architect François Le Coeur. A circular hall with a diameter of 17.5 meters welcomes the public, while the taller buildings were reserved for postal services. Inside, the vaulted ceiling is decorated with colorful contemporary frescoes. As I enter, two young employees immediately inform me that photography is prohibited. I point at the numerous video cameras filming me. A better argument, however, would have been to mention the internet, where one can find countless photos of the interior and the frescoes.
Halles Boulingrin
Another remarkable building is the covered market, Halles Boulingrin. Built in 1929, it's covered by a then-novel, thin-walled concrete vault designed by Eugène Freyssinet. After years of neglect, during which the building was even threatened with demolition, it was recently restored. Today, Sunday, there's a flea market in this retro-futuristic ensemble. All visitors have to show the contents of their bags at the entrance. I wonder if that's also the case on regular market days.
Inside Halles Boulingrin
The destruction of Reims in World War I attracted international attention. Aid came primarily from American donors, not just the Carnegie Foundation. Perhaps that's why the names of American billionaires appear so frequently in the cityscape. Besides the Carnegie Library, the pedestrian zone features a Hemingway Café, there is a Rue Rockefeller, Rue Franklin Roosevelt and the Lycée Franklin Roosevelt, an Esplanade Eisenhower, and the Kodak Building.
For a long time, the cathedral was considered a symbol of Franco-German antagonism. It wasn't until July 8, 1962, that a symbolic gesture was made when Konrad Adenauer, Chancellor of the Federal Republic of Germany, and Charles de Gaulle, President of France, chose the cathedral as the venue for their reconciliation meeting. This gesture was repeated in 2012 by Angela Merkel and President François Hollande to mark the 50th anniversary of the reconciliation.
Detail of the facade
When I first entered the cathedral, a service was in progress. The nave was well-attended today, the first Sunday of the year. Security guards watched the visitors suspiciously. The fear of attacks was palpable. I decided to admire the exterior first and return later.
Smiling angel
As early as the 5th century, a church had stood on this site above the original Roman baths, which was expanded several times in the Carolingian and early Gothic styles. This church burned down in 1210. It wasn't until 1299 that the roof of the new cathedral was completed. Only in the 18th century was the interior somewhat adapted to the tastes of the time. Even during the French Revolution, little was destroyed, although the church was temporarily used as a granary.
Corbels at the feet of the statues usually representing sinners or evil and carry the weight of the saints above
Since then, there have been repeated restoration efforts. Even now, the central part of the facade is hidden behind construction cladding. Although this obscures the sculptures of the central portal, the resulting space on the panels has at least been used to explain the visible part of the facade. There aren't many readers.
The west facade extends over five levels. The lowest level consists of a central portal and two side portals. On the second level is an arch decorated with plant motifs and sculptures of figures from the Old and New Testaments. It is crowned by a pediment adorned with monumental statues of the Coronation of the Virgin. On the third level, a large rose window opens, above which a bas-relief depicts King David battling the giant Goliath. On the fourth level is a gallery of monumental statues of the kings of Israel. The central scene depicts the baptism of Clovis by Bishop Remigius in the presence of his wife, Clotilde. The fifth level consists of a gable flanked by two towers.
Even the side naves of Reims cathedral are huge
Many churches feel dark and oppressive inside. Reims is no exception. Medieval builders spent a long time searching for a compromise between structural stability and the distribution and size of the windows. Even then, windows in the Gothic period were already larger than before. Reims Cathedral already features the classic division of lower arcades – triforium – clerestory. The low, windowless triforium with its walkway separates the high arcades of the nave from the large clerestory windows, which bring most of the light into the nave, since the windows in the side aisles are hidden behind the arcades and quite small. The amount of light entering the room is actually reduced by colored windows and is probably even greater today than before, when many windows are simply made of transparent, colorless glass.
The main nave
During the shelling in the First World War, the centuries-old stained-glass windows of the cathedral were destroyed. In 2008, the German artist Imi Knoebel was commissioned to design six new windows, each measuring 10.30 by 2.50 meters, for the north and south apses of the cathedral. The windows were inaugurated in 2011 by Frédéric Mitterrand, then Minister of Culture. Remarkably, Knoebel is a self-proclaimed atheist. He refused payment for the design of the windows. Their creation and installation cost 900,000 DM, which was paid by the German government.
Glass windows of Knoebel and Chagall
As early as 1974, Marc Chagall had designed stained-glass windows for the axial chapel. Chagall also designed windows for several churches in England, the USA, the Fraumünster in Zurich, and St. Stephen's Church in Mainz.
The cathedral at night
Another reason many come to Reims is its culinary delights. Champagne is offered everywhere in the city, and of course, you can visit the famous cellars. I'm looking for a nice restaurant. I'm always worried that I won't get a table without a reservation, especially here in Reims. Like in Metz, here too, anything doesn't open until 7 a.m. When I arrive at "La Table de Sacre" at that time, I'm the first guest. There's still a table for me. The food is excellent, the service attentive, and the ambiance stylish with tablecloths and cloth napkins. For a starter, I choose cannelloni with snails and mushrooms, for the main course cod fillet with artichokes and fennel, and for dessert, Diplomatencreme. Even the local draft beer is good. One has to treat oneself sometimes.
Insider restaurant "La table de Sacre"
While all the guests here are locals, the next day (apparently the Sacre's day of fasting, as the restaurant is closed) I end up at the Restaurant Excelsior, at a table between a group of Chinese people on one side and a group of Germans on the other. There are no French guests in this part of the dining room; they have apparently been seated elsewhere, from where children's voices can be heard. The restaurant is in a beautiful Art Nouveau building and, as on the previous evening, offers excellent service and a stylish ambiance.
Inside Restaurant "Excelsior"
The two Chinese couples to my left have ordered a seafood platter, which, laid out on a huge display plate, practically covers the entire surface of their table. They are clearly very impressed with their meal. Many photos are being taken. The large platter attracts general attention. In contrast, the menu of the German group to my right is rather ordinary, although they are paying close attention to selecting the appropriate wines.
Sea food stand in the streets of Reims
I myself begin with an excellent salad with raw sea bream fillet. For my main course, I have ordered Boeuf au Cognac. I hadn't expected that all the attention would now turn to me. The waiter, a friendly Rastafarian whom you'd expect to find in a Caribbean-themed cocktail bar, meticulously flambés the steak at a small table right before my eyes—and everyone else's. The resulting burst of flame is impressive. Even though I also order pear tiramisu for dessert, I'm finished after just an hour.
Fast food restaurant
Remarkably, these local gourmet restaurants aren't much more expensive than a typical roadside inn in a German village.
The former circus
The period before the First World War also produced some remarkable buildings in Reims. On the edge of the old town, on the site of the former, demolished city fortifications, a circus was built in 1867—a circular building that now serves as a theater and event venue. Behind it is a lovely park with one of the bandstands found in many French city parks. There should be regular performances there. Now, in the freezing cold, only huddled dog owners walk their pets.
Reims main railway station
The Reims train station was also built around the same time, in 1877. Fortunately, the building survived the turmoil of the First World War. Here, too, there is a reminder of the Great War: on the furthest track, the steam locomotive 140 C 313 "Vladimir" is on display. It was built in Glasgow in 1917. In both World Wars, the wartime shortage of locomotives in France was compensated for by aid shipments from allied countries. After the locomotive was taken out of service in 1967, it was preserved by the wife of the former mayor of Reims, Tattinger, a great railway enthusiast, and named after their son.
Steam locomotive 140 C 313 as a monument in the station hall
The only tram line in Reims stops in front of the train station. As in other cities, the desire for unimpeded car traffic had led to the discontinuation of tram service in Reims. But in 2011, the tram returned. The 11.2 km long line with 23 stops connects the TGV station in Bezannes with the Hôpital.
The modern tram line in Reims
Sources:
No comments:
Post a Comment